19 nov 08 | The New York Times

A new wind is blowing in Chicago

By Jeff Zeleny

Even before President-elect Barack Obama takes office in 61 days, effectively crowning Chicago as the site of the Western White House, the city is basking in a moment of triumph that is spilling well beyond the confines of politics.

A bid for the summer Olympics in 2016, which once seemed like a fanciful pitch, suddenly feels far closer to a sure thing. (No, the ban on lobbyists at the White House does not apply to a little presidential persuasion on the International Olympic Committee.)

A spire is finally poised to be placed atop the Trump Tower here, bringing the skyscraper to 1,361 feet, the tallest American building since the Sears Tower was built three decades ago.

A new Modern Wing for the fabled Art Institute is set to open next spring, including a Renzo Piano bridge to Millennium Park, which sat in the distance of Mr. Obama's election night victory speech here.

Yet this moment of renaissance for Chicago is about much more than architecture and athletics. For the first time in the country's history, an American president will call this city home. And as he moves to Washington, a dose of the Chicago mood is sure to follow.

"We're not Little Rock and we're not Texas," said Rick Bayless, a friend of the Obama family, who owns Frontera Grill and is among the city's celebrity chefs. "It's easy to put on your cowboy boots and eat all that barbecue. You can't do that from Chicago. We've got a lot of muscle and it's far too complex of a place for that."

The complexity of Chicago, a city that is multiplying in its new diversity even as it clings to a segregated past, is rooted in the 200 neighborhoods that make up the nation's third-largest city. America may well know Oprah Winfrey, who became a billion-dollar name through her rise to fame here, but the city holds a far broader identity.

One sign that the Obama brand is replacing the Oprah brand? The talk show tycoon is not mentioned in the city's new tourism campaign, which invites visitors to "Experience the city the Obamas enjoy." Ms. Winfrey's studio is not mentioned along the list of stops, which range from Mr. Bayless's restaurants to a bookstore in the Obamas' Hyde Park neighborhood to Promontory Point along Lake Michigan. And souvenirs are on sale across town, with Obama shirts, hats and knickknacks arriving just in time for holiday shopping.

"It seems like there are eight million people walking around here congratulating each other," said Scott Turow, the best-selling novelist who was born in the city. "Chicagoans are unbelievably proud of Barack and feel of course that he's ours, because he is."

Catching himself, he added: "I guess I should get out of the habit of calling him Barack."

The marketing pitch, in the wake of Mr. Obama's victory, offers a window into the two-fold psyche of the city: It is a big enough metropolis not to be easily fazed by events, though the fabric of the community is stitched just tight enough to burst in a rare moment of giddiness.

Chicago has long been a place that seems comfortable -- or, at least, well adjusted -- to losing, a place where you put your head down and shoulder through whatever hand is dealt you. (How could it be otherwise, considering all the practice that the cursed Chicago Cubs have provided over the years?)

In 1952, when an article in The New Yorker derisively referred to Chicago as the Second City, little offense was taken. It became a marketing pitch, with the thinking that second fiddle was far better than no fiddle at all.

But that gawking, out-of-town amazement -- gee, there really is a city here! -- has long outlived its currency. Well before Mr. Obama was elected as the nation's 44th president -- a fact that was proudly amplified by Mayor Richard M. Daley, who ordered up banners with a sketch of the president-elect to hang throughout the city -- Chicago was experiencing one of its most blossoming periods in food, fashion and the arts.

Now, people around the country and the world are simply noticing.

Jeff Tweedy, the leader of the band Wilco who grew up in downstate Illinois and lives in Chicago, said the city never felt the inferiority complex that outsiders spend so much time musing about. Still, he said, the election of Mr. Obama, a friend for years, has given an unusual boost of confidence in a city that is usually nonplussed.

"I think people really do enjoy the idea that we're living in the center of the world all of the sudden," Mr. Tweedy said. "There have been all these prevailing stereotypes, and people don't know how big and urban Chicago actually is. People think of it as being in a cornfield."

If the country is set to see more of Chicago over the next four years -- many people across the city here are too humble, nervous and practical to automatically assume Mr. Obama will be in office for eight years -- at least one introductory lesson is in order.

If you had always assumed that Chicago earned its nickname as the Windy City from the chilly gusts coming off Lake Michigan, you would be wrong. The city is windy, according to most local legends, because of the hot air bellowing from politicians.

That was among the early lessons about Chicago that scores of young political operatives may have picked up when they moved to the city nearly two years ago to work in Mr. Obama's headquarters. But while his campaign was located here -- largely to escape the tentacles of Washington -- the around-the-clock hours kept few of his young aides from truly experiencing the place that helped shape the next president.

"There is a really strong sense of self in Chicago: People aren't defined by wealth or by work or accomplishments, but rather who they are," said Alex Kotlowitz, an author who makes his home in Chicago because he believes it is a place to peer into America's heart. "Obama seems so comfortable in his skin and with who he is. That's so Chicago."

It remains an open question just how much, if any, of Chicago will rub off on Washington. For starters, perhaps the president may be less inclined to shut down his government when a few flurries of snow are spotted. Mr. Obama has already lived in the capital -- for a few nights a week, anyway -- since arriving in the Senate four years ago.

The Obamas are, however, taking a bit of Chicago with them.

Michelle Obama's's mother is moving to Washington. (No, she is not living in the White House.) So Malia, 10, and Sasha, 7, aren't alone, a family that lives near the Obama home in Hyde Park is also moving, so the girls have built-in friends in the new world surrounding them.

And, friends say, look for them to spend at least a bit of time back in Chicago. (There is, after all, no Crawford ranch available to this first presidential family.)

Lois Weisberg, the Commissioner of Cultural Affairs for the city of Chicago, is a bit worried by the entrepreneurial rush surrounding Mr. Obama's election. She hopes that while the Obamas are away the city remains a dignified tourist destination, not where buses are simply hawking rides around Obama points of interest.

"It's too much luck for one city," Ms. Weisberg said. "You get the president, you get the tourists, you get the Olympics. There is a wonderful feeling. I don't think there was anything wrong with us before, but I think we're better now."